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Following we'd like to tell
you a story about some interesting, exciting or funny episods in our
history. We recommend you further to visit our village museum. For
more information please ask at the Tourist Office.
The Fruit form stangers coming to the
mountain: The building of a church (1510)
The Lötschen Pass which was the northern extension of
the trade route from Italy over the Simplon Pass was a very busy spice
route. Kandersteg and its isolated hamlet, Gastern, were used as overnight
stops along the way. A document from 1374 states that peppercorns
were often used as payment for food and lodging. The traders were
very aware of the dangers of the alpine passes and often asked when
a church would be built so that they could make their devotions before
embarking on their dangerous journey. In 1510, the farmers of the
region built the village church, which is still in existence today.
It was dedicated to the Virgin Mary. The farmers, however, were very
poor and had no money for the interior decoration of their church.
They were allowed to collect money, by way of a begging letter, across
the whole area under Bernese authority. Enough money was collected
and the people of Kandersteg completed their church some 18 years
before the Reformation. The communion goblet and the bell which was
cast in 1541 here in the village, and was used regularly until 1910
and is
still used to ring in the New Year, date back to this time.
"Samis Haus" which was built alongside the main street in
1556 is a silent witness to these long gone trading days.
The village did not have a vicar until 1948 and the church was attended
to first by the vicar of Frutigen and then from Kandersgrund. Even
so, the people of Kandersteg continued to improve and extend their
church. In 1623 they added the vaulted ceilings and pulpit which is
adorned with wood-carving and paintings. The Bailiff of Frutigen gave
them a stained glass window in recognition of their efforts.
When the tunnel through the Lötschberg was being built the population
of Kandersteg increased markedly and it was declared as an independent
community. In 1909 the church tower was built and the church was extended
in size.
The renewal of the path over the Lötschen
Pass in commemorated by a bible (1696)
In 1696 the government approved implementation of plans to improve
and extend the old Roman Way across the Lötschen Pass. A company
of soldiers was assigned to this task and they worked side by side
with the people of Kandersteg for three summers. They found food and
lodging with the villagers and obviously enjoyed their hospitality
and friendship. The inhabitants of the Gastern Valley had no bible
at that time so the soldiers presented them with a copy of the new
edition of the Bernese State Bible which had been translated by the
theologian Johannes Piscator who came from southern Germany. Ulrich
Thormann, who was a Bernese aristocrat and the company commander in
charge of the work, dedicated the bible and decreed that the oldest
house owner, whether male or female, should be responsible for the
bibles' safety. This decree is still obeyed today in the Gastern Valley.
The bible was the only real result from this bold building plan. The
people of Wallis on the south side of the Lötschen Pass never
completed their part of the route and so the new route on the north
side gradually decayed and the only route from the Bernese Oberland
to Wallis remained over the Lötschen Glacier. Military units
re-built the path as a mountain hiking trail in celebration of the
700th. anniversary of the Helvetic Confederation in 1991.
The vicars of Frutigen who, in past times, went by foot each summer
to their flock in the isolated hamlets of the area, always used
the Gastern Bible for their services. The Gastern Sermon has become
a treasured tradition and is held annually on the morning of the
first Sunday in August. A chronicle of these mountain sermons has
been kept since 1822 and the event attracts many visitors.
The beauty of the Kandersteg Mountains
is discovered
Albrecht von Haller, later a doctor and scientist in Bern, hiked
across the Gemmi Pass from Wallis to Kandersteg in 1728. This was
a time when the alpine beauty was generally ignored out of fear
of unnamed horrors. Even the alpine air was condemned by doctors
as unhealthy and stultifying. Albrecht von Haller was deeply impressed
by the wonders he experienced during his hike. His encounters with
the valley people living their simple lives, yodelling and joking
while bringing in the hay convinced him that they were not so stupid
as people in the cities thought. Von Haller wrote the book "The
Alps" which soon became famous, especially in literary circles.
He presented a completely new viewpoint and was able to describe
the wonders and beauty of the Alps in such a way that the readers
became fascinated. Large numbers of people began to visit the mountain
valleys.
This all happened round 1740 at the time when the path over the
Gemmi Pass was renewed and provided a good route through the Bernese
Alps. Naturally, this brought extra income to the people of Kandersteg.
In addition to the trade goods there were now tourist with their
mounts, sedan chairs and servants. The number of overnight stays
increased rapidly. Many of the larger houses built in this period
have interesting mottoes on their facades which give us some insight
into the thoughts of the villagers during this period. Interesting
examples are the "Ruedihaus" and the "Haus Spychermatte".
Tourism demands comfort (1789)
The tourists, who were accustomed to the comforts and amenities
of the cities, soon made themselves heard by the government in Bern.
They found it an impertinence that they were expected to stay in
the simple farm houses in Kandersteg. The farming community of Kandersteg
was ordered to build a guest house according to the plans of guest
houses built in the lowlands. Even though the design did not appeal
to the people of Kandersteg the first and only comfortable, respectable
lodgings in the valley were built. The "Gasthof zum Ritter"
is still standing and in use, today, next to the church.
Mountain peaks attract new guests
(1860)
In the summer of 1860, two Englishmen, a vicar and a doctor
and an American arrived in Kandersteg and asked for a guide to take
them to the top of the Blümlisalp (3663 m above sea level).
The young Fritz Ogi was the only person with enough courage to take
the job. He became the founder of a mountain guide dynasty and his
gravestone, next to the church, bears a dedication to this pioneer
who conquered our mountains. One mountain peak after the other was
conquered and the mountaineers stayed longer and longer in the village.
The profession of mountain guide was born. In 1853, Rudolf Egger
from Frutigen became the host of the "Gasthof zum Ritter".
He had worked in the hotel trade in England and wanted to draw the
attention of the English to Kandersteg. He renamed his guest house
"Hotel Victoria". This name was later given to the extension
which was built in 1875 and the original building retained its name
"Gasthof zum Ritter". Five new hotels were built in the
19th. century and these, together with the 25 hotels which were
erected in the 20th. century changed the village forever. New professions
- mountain guide, ski teacher sprang up and there were many
positions created in the hotel trade. The inhabitants of Kandersteg
who had previously enjoyed a simple, hard, mountain farming life
began to enjoy the fruits of prosperity and could build a solid,
stable financial basis for their families. This period is mentioned
in many travel reports.
Mark Twain stayed in Kamdersteg for the night of August 23rd. 1878
and then hiked over the Gemmi Pass. His humorous but accurate account
of his journey can be found in his book "A Tramp Abroad".
The guest book at mountain guest house and restaurant Schwarenbach
half-way across the Gemmi Pass has inscriptions from many famous
personalities such as Alexander Dumas, Guy de Maupassant, Picasso
and Lenin. Zacharias Werner wrote a play entitled "The 24th.
February" which gave the location the reputation of a murderers
cavern and this made it even more attractive to tourists.
The bulding of the Lötschberg
Railway widens the horizon (1906-13)
While the building of the Lötschberg Tunnel from 1906 to 1913
and the construction of the first electric connection between the
northern and the southern Alps was an astounding technical achivement,
Kandersteg remembers the people who carried out the work and shared
their world during this period. The population of the village was
445 at that time and saw the influx of 2500 mostly Italian labourers
together with some 1100 family members and traders. Lodgings for
3600 people were needed. Apartment blocks were constructed for the
families and three of these are still standing. A village of barracks
was born as well as many well built houses at the far end of the
village. Some of these houses are still in use today.
Shops, hotels and guest houses in large numbers were erected and
also a new school. Many decisions had to be made then and there
so that Kandersteg was declared a self governing community in these
respects. The village was already used to dealing with strangers
due to the traders and tourists so was able to cope well with the
new situation. It profited greatly, both financially and culturally.
One result was emergence of a host of clubs and associations which
help to hold the village together today. The community spirit which
these produce enables the 1100 inhabitants to cope with the summer
and winter seasons when the 3000 beds or dormitory places provide
600,000 lodging nights and there are 1000 persons in the camp sites.
Even the earth and rocks which were taken from the tunnel was turned
to good use for Kandersteg and widened their horizons. In 1923,
the International Scout Alpine Association together with the Swiss
Scout movement purchased the area where the earth and rocks from
the tunnel had been deposited together with the deserted offices
and buildings. They converted this, over several years, into an
International Scout Centre which is now visited every year by up
to 9000 young people from all over the world. This is an excellent
contribution to global understanding breaking the barriers of nationality,
language and religion. The operation of the railway is a constant
source of jobs for the people of the village.
Confrontation with dangers of nature
and hard times
The masked, threatening figures which dance through the village
streets each Christmas and New Year are known as Pelzmartiga and
they give the children along the main street a delicious fright.
They are more than just carnival figures. They represent the dangers
of living in mountain villages which are still real. Nature is cruel
and mankind cannot influence it. The villagers have survived natural
catastrophes, times of hunger with high rates of child deaths, world
wars which affected every household in the valley, bears and wolves
which approached the village houses as winter wore on. During the
long, cold winters the villagers were especially aware of the dangers
which threatened their lives and so they took up the fight against
these dangers, as in many other areas, by costuming themselves to
represent the dangers and driving them away. The figures turn against
that which they pretend to be; dressed pine green, beggars, child-eaters,
war-wounded or clothed in animal furs together
with a figure hung about with playing cards. They are kept in check
by a man in elegant clothes with a whip which signifies that God
the Father watches over everything which oppresses mankind and that
mankind can trust him to watch over them. The symbolic figures then
disappear again for a year. It is to be hoped that this old tradition
does not become an empty tourist attraction.
The villagers of today work together to counter dangers to which
the population of earlier times were helplessly exposed. Streams
and rivers are channelled and banks raised, avalanche defences are
erected and all the villagers work together to organise help for
those in need.
Not Mad by Man
Kandersteg did not consciously choose tourism as the main financial
basis. Once the trade route became defunct people came to Kandersteg
in appreciation of the wonderful natural, mountain beauty. Nature
provided the incentive for people to come to the area. The journey
to and from the area had to be made easier. Botanists had long recognised
the huge variety of mountain flowers which grow in the area. This
is the result of a happy meeting of primary rocks and rocks made
from the sediment left by a long ago sea. Primary rocks have little
chalk and in these areas we find those plants which do not grow
on chalky soil. The red primula grows on primary rocks, without
chalk whereas the yellow cliff primula requires chalk. Kandersteg
has one cliff ridge where both types of primula grow so closely
together that a large number of cross-varieties have developed.
The Gastern Valley has examples of the Alpine Grape Vine which otherwise
only grows on the southern side of the Alps. Orchid lovers find
a paradise! They are to be found up to the height of 2000m where
the dwarf orchid can be found and there are 27 varieties not counting
numerous cross-varieties.
There are thirteen large and small glaciers on the flanks of the
Kandersteg mountains. Geologists can find areas where the granite
rocks are covered with a layer of chalky soil which comes from an
ancient sea. The mountains around the valley are mostly made up
of rocks and soil which has been pushed up from the more southern
parts of the country.
The striations on the Birre mountain and the cliffs at the entrance
to the Gastern Valley are especially interesting. Here we see the
different hardness of the rocks made up from sea sediment. The Geltenbach
in the Gastern Valley springs from the fold of a rock with immense
force in summer when the snow melt from the glaciers on the Balmhorn
and the Altels seeps through the mountains. As soon as the weather
is colder the Geltenbach ceases to flow.
There are large herds of chamois and mountain goats roam on the
mountain slopes and two pairs of eagles have made the Kandersteg
mountains their hunting range. All these natural wonders are packed
into quite a small area which is covered by a well maintained and
marked network of hiking and mountain trails. The Oeschinen Lake
which is one square kilometre in
area and is sixty metres deep at the foot of the Blümlisalp
is part of this network.
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